Glasgow – Oban – Crinan – Oban – Glasgow

No rail travel at all on this day, but it was a planned part of the overall trip, indeed it was booked months before anything else and was the starting point of the idea to fly back to Aberdeen from Norway, and I worked backwards from that point.

I’ve travelled on the paddle steamer Waverley before, down the Clyde from Glasgow, but was very tempted by today’s trip when their schedule was published last winter.

There are no early trains from Glasgow to Oban, but the ticket price included travel from Glasgow. It was a filthy morning as I crossed the city to the bus station. Rain was teeming down and I felt even more sorry than usual for the council workers out cleaning up in the aftermath of last night’s football-related revelries.

Our departure was somewhat delayed by a group of passengers who had gone to the Waverley’s Glasgow base on the Clyde, and who apparently had no idea that they were going on a coach to Oban and thought the ship was departing from there. Strange!

The rain eased as we left the city and whilst the skies were still heavy it was good to have the chance to look out of the windows rather than concentrating on the road, as I normally would on this journey. The journey beside Loch Lomond is a very winding one, though the coach driver clearly knew it very well.

By the time we reached Oban, the rain was back, and with a vengeance. I could just about see the funnels of the Waverley as we approached the harbour. We had made up some time after our late departure but by the time we arrived all the other passengers were on board which meant it was a bit easier to make a run for it and quickly get under cover.

The inside of the boat was packed and I was more than glad that moments after we pulled away from the berth the sky lightened a little and the rain turned to drizzle then stopped completely.

The seating areas outside were still wet so most people stayed inside but it gave me the opportunity to wander around on deck.

The schedules of the Waverly are worked out so that they can do more than one trip in a day, but also to try and create circular routes for passengers as much as they can. Today’s route left Oban for Craignure on Mull, before turning south for our main destination of Crinan. It will return here this evening after I’ve left, en route to Fort William which is a one-way trip.

When we arrived at Craignure we were held off for a time as the CalMac ferry was boarding, but after a few minutes they decided to let us tie up on the opposite side of the pier. The very low tide meant that getting the boarding gangways in position was quite a strenuous task for the crew and those passengers getting on had to be extremely careful not to slip as they came down it.

Retracing our steps slightly, we hugged the coast of Mull for the next part of the journey, passing Duart Castle before turning south. I explored Mull and Iona for the first time a few years ago. Both are lovely and the view from the water was just as nice. Crossing to the opposite coastline at the southern end of Loch Linnhe we passed quite close to the remote village of Easdale.

Our main destination for this cruise was the harbour of Crinan. I’ve been here before a number of times, but never arrived by water. Looking out from the lock at the end of the Crinan Canal, it has always seemed idyllic but something I learned in today approach is that the seas around this coast have incredible currents. You could see the turbulence in the water all around and I was filled with admiration for the yachtsmen who were picking their way up the coast.

We came in quite close to Crinan harbour then had to back out about half a mile as a small vessel was making its way to the lock. A rather odd move but it really showed the power of the paddle steamer which reversed as quickly as it could go forwards.

After this short delay we pulled into the mooring, just beyond the lock. The vessel is way too long to moor against the wall but there was enough to allow people to get off, with long ropes thrown to the bank for and aft.

We were advised that extra time was being given in Crinan to look around, which gave time for me to get quite a few photos of this lovely spot on what had turned into a lovely sunny day. I’ve only ever been here before when it’s quiet so to see a few hundred people descend on the harbour was rather odd. It was lovely to see VIC32 on her usual mooring, though she wasn’t open to visitors.

Back on the move, I went to find some lunch and to have a look below decks. The inside spaces were very full. The Waverley can carry 860 passengers and whilst there was nothing like that number today, finding a table to sit at and have a sandwich and drink wasn’t easy.

One of the nice features with this ship is that the engine is open to view. It’s a spectacular sight, and somewhat inspirational, or maybe aspirational, to those of us with our own engine rooms to maintain!

Our return journey took us via the famous whirlpool at Corryvreckan. The crew member on the PA was keen to get everyone out on deck to see it, but in truth it wasn’t really happening today. A shame as I’d love to have seen it, but I’d very happily come back for another look.

We returned to Oban via a different route up the Sound of Kerrera. I had considered skipping the return coach and catching the train back to Oban, as that is a lovely journey, but our extended stay in Crinan meant that we were too late to do this.

The return journey passed without anything of note to report. Glasgow was distinctly quieter than the night before. Having snacked through the day, I picked up something light to eat from a supermarket and headed back to my hotel, stopping only for a quick look inside Central Station, part of which was still fenced off following the recent fire next door.