Basel SBB – Olten – Arth-Goldau – Lugano – Milano Centrale

I’d allowed myself another half a day in Basel. In particular I wanted to explore the area around the three-way border with Germany and France. I’m oddly fascinated by borders. They are such artificial concepts but people become obsessed by the details. Technically “Basel” only covers the Swiss part of the conurbation, but it certainly extends beyond the German and French borders, though as Weil am Rhein and Huningue, respectively.

After an early breakfast I set off on foot, but picked up a tram which took me almost exactly to where I wanted to be. It was nice to see bits of the city that I hadn’t walked last night. I thought the market area in particular was super. It is an area with a huge cultural heart and around 40 museums, so not short of things to look at. I didn’t have anything like as long as I wanted to explore.

The tram network extends into Germany and France, and the Basel travel pass is valid, but I’d decided I wanted to walk over the borders. After leaving the tram a little way short of the Switzerland-Germany border, I continued on foot. I was surprised to see a Swiss police presence, stopping every vehicle and pulling odd ones over to be checked more thoroughly, including one I saw with Swiss number plates. Given that we are still within the Basel conurbation (around 3 miles from the station) that must be a real pain for the locals if they do it regularly.

The checkpoint was on the city side of a bridge into a dock area, but the border itself was on the other side of the bridge, in the middle of a tram stop. The position of the tri-point border can be seen from the bridge, though it isn’t marked, being in the middle of the river! Whether border guards check the tram passengers is something I didn’t investigate.

I turned left at a roundabout and headed onto a footbridge over the Rhine. Here we met another border, in the middle of the channel, marked by a plaque. The bridge itself “Passerelle des Trois Pays” (Three Countries Bridge) celebrates the relationship between the neighbours.

Now on the French side of the river, I was immediately impressed by a group of three modern developments next to the bridge. It’s rare to see a completely original design, let alone three together and I liked the middle one in particular.

I turned left again to head back towards the city, walking now along the riverbank. There was no sign of the Swiss/German border on the opposite side of the river, barring a sign which mentions the Port of Switzerland, not a phrase you expect to see in a landlocked country!

Whilst looking at one of the many signs along this side of the river, I struck up a conversation with a local lady who was out walking a dog. She explained a little more of what I was looking at and we ended up talking about my visit to the area, things to see in the city and a range of other things too. It was lovely to get the insight into a place I was increasingly warming to.

Back on the move, I soon encountered the border back into Switzerland. This one was unmanned, though I noted the CCTV cameras.

By now it was time for me to get back to the hotel, collect my things and make a move. I caught a tram back through a different part of the city and I noted a few more places deserving of a return visit.

The weather had been lovely all morning and I liked the light as I stood on the station to leave a place which had very much surprised me, and which I feel still has more to give.

My first train of the day was a Deutsche Bahn service. Unfortunately it was running a few minutes late and didn’t make up any time before my change in Olten. A planned 5 minute connection became 2 minutes, but I just about made it. The DB service was still in the adjacent platform when we left.

The next part of the trip has a stop in Lucerne, where the train reverses. This is another place that I’d like to visit, and although I’ve passed through by train a few times I have never left the station, which is a shame as it is almost on the waterfront . The views of the lake as you leave the town are stunning. I also got a glimpse of what looked like a castle but it was too brief for me to grab a photo.

From here, all the way to Arth-Goldau the views are stunning, first on the right, then the left as the train weaves through the valleys and alongside a series of stunning lakes.

Another very quick change put me onto one of the fabulous Swiss double deckers. I love being on the top level of these. They’re so comfortable and the views are magnificent with huge windows that slightly wrap around. The sun was in the wrong place for perfect photos of the mountains but I very much enjoyed this part of the journey.

One more three minute change in Lugano put me on the service to Milan. Amazing that all three connections today had been made when I’d planned on the assumption that any or all of them could have been missed.

The weather turned wet and misty as we left Lugano and stayed that way for the whole journey. Places that I’ve previously enjoyed great views of were all but invisible this time.

At Chiasso, as we entered Italy, a team of border police walked through the train before it departed, but didn’t speak to anyone as far as I could tell.

It’s always a treat to arrive in Milano Centrale, which is undoubtedly one of the great railway stations of the world. With several hours of free time after making all my connections I decided to put my bags into left luggage and spend a bit of time in the city.

I’ve never caught the Metro here before. I’m a big fan of the vintage trams in Milan but on this occasion I thought it would make the best use of time. The train was incredibly busy, but I managed to get a seat after a couple of stops. I got off at Porta Genova, near to the Navigli area, that I’m so fond of.

It was lovely to see this area at night, at a different time of year, and with a boat moving on the canal – I’ve never seen that before! The no. 10 trams are the oldest in regular service and one of these passed as I was walking around.

After a good look around (and having passed up the chance of a treat in the Sicilian food shop!) I set off on foot toward the city centre. I’ve always enjoyed the walk on this road, Corso di Porta Ticinese.

I stopped at a supermarket to pick up provisions for the overnight trip, then as I got to the Duomo, dived into the Metro again for a return to Centrale.

A gem I discovered some years ago is the Mercato Centrale Milano, a food market under the station. Not the big one under the main concourse but on the western edge of the station with a well hidden entrance just as you exit the station. This time around I had a (reportedly award-winning) ham and plantain pizza but I have previously tried various dishes and never been disappointed. My favourite Milanese food is their take on risotto, but I didn’t find any today.

I collected my bags and headed for the train. I’m going to post the whole sleeper journey as a single entry tomorrow, even though it began shortly after 8pm (I’m typing this while on that train.)