Exhibition Centre – Partick – Balloch – Dalreoch – Helensburgh Central – Helensburgh Upper – Oban
The first goal for today was to explore a couple of branch lines that I’ve not done before. From Exhibition Centre, I travelled first to Partick. From there I was able to take a train to Balloch, at the southern end of Loch Lomond. The railway line stops quite abruptly just short of a road, these days, but used to continue to the lake.
I walked through a woodland for about 10 minutes and eventually found my destination, despite a distinct lack of signage.
I immediately spotted the magnificent Maid of the Loch, the ongoing restoration project of the last paddle steamer on Loch Lomond. Unfortunately I had arrived on a day when it was not possible to look around the boat, as work was going on, but I’d love to see it one day.
I had a long chat with one of the volunteers based in the engine house which contains the winch to haul boats up the slipway. His passion for this immense project was remarkable.
From here I retraced my route as far as Dalreoch, where I swapped platforms for the service to Helensburgh Central. I’d not visited this lovely little station before. The town is more of a street along the waterfront, but has some rather interesting buildings. I spotted the Mackintosh Club and also a plaque recognising John Logie Baird. The inventor of the the world’s first mechanical television system was a local man. My main destination was up quite a large hill, to the north of the town. Unfortunately there were no buses and no sign of taxis so I walked the mile and a quarter to the famous Hill House.
I saw mention of this place in a newspaper article a few years ago and have wanted to visit ever since. Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s iconic design was being encased in a “box” to stop the rain getting to it, as it was slowly disintegrating. The early 20th Century concrete was not as durable as they had hoped at the time.
The brave and magnificent decision made by National Trust for Scotland, some five years ago, was to turn the structure into something that could enhance the experience for visitors, as well as serving its primary purpose of allowing the building to very slowly dry out. The sides of the structure are made of chainmail so the wind blows around and the climate is as it would be anywhere else in this area, other than it is a bit darker and it never rains directly onto the property.
A walkway has been created so that you can see the building from all angles, including looking down on it from above the roof. It really is quite extraordinary. As for the property itself, this style is not what I would choose to live with but it is quite wonderful. I spent far longer there than I had planned to, and would gladly go back for another look. This gallery is a selection taken both inside and outside the house.
It was drizzling by the time I left. I could see that the “box” was doing its job. I walked down to the other Helensburgh Station, which is much closer than the one in town, and is on the line to Oban. It’s a quirky little place, one platform and is a request stop.
The drizzle slowly cleared as my train headed through the hills and the scenery was lovely. This side of the country is much greener (wetter?) than the east coast. By the time we descended the final long curve into Oban the sun was shining.
I headed first to my accommodation. Unusually for me I was in a small B&B, as I’d booked last minute and there were limited options. It turned out to be rather fun, the decor was something else!
I dropped my bags and decided to walk first up to McCaig’s Tower. I’ve not been up there in years and the views are super, on a warm summer evening.
I slowly descended via a longer route, arriving back in town near to the harbour. From here I walked along the road which follows the water’s edge for a mile or so to the north. The sunset was a beautiful end to a really super day.
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