19th November – Circumetnea, well, sort of!

Catania – Nesima – Paterno – Randazzo – Catania

I’ve had it in my mind to travel the little train that runs around the edge of Etna since I first found out about it on my 2022 visit to this area. Before I went to bed last night I looked at the timetable, and discovered that there is an early morning service with a connection from the subway station right outside my hotel.

The Circumetnea used to run right into the city and onward to the coast, but these days it starts in a suburb. The line in the city has been replaced by the subway, and just to add a little complexity the interchange station has been closed since last year, and a half hour bus journey is needed. Helpfully the website of the company that runs both the train and the subway (but not the bus) has a useful map.

All sounded like a plan until I woke up an hour and a half after it had left. Ah well, a leisurely breakfast was had instead. There was a late morning option and after checking that I’d definitely be able to make it back, I set off.

The subway is still being built and at present the terminus, Stesicoro, is right outside my hotel. The trains are large and comfortable, though severely graffitied.

Arriving at Nesima, I quickly located the temporarily closed Circumetnea station. Beyond it was a ticket office so I went up to find out about onward travel. There was no-one about and a distinct lack of information, but a helpful bus driver told me that the bus I needed was down on the main road. I retraced my steps past the station.

The bus arrived just a few minutes later. I asked the driver if I could use the 24 hour travel pass that I’d bought for Catania. He said yes and oddly ripped the corner off my ticket! Thankfully the QR code was OK and I did carry on using it later in the day.

The bus follows the line of the Circumetnea as best it can, up and down side streets, retracing its path more than once. As we got closer to Paterno I was becoming concerned that the connection might not be made. This wasn’t a dedicated service as I had thought, it was simply the local bus that happens to pass the two stations.

Thankfully we arrived with about 5 minutes to spare. I was the only person who got off and dived into the station. I needed another ticket for this service, so headed for the ticket office – which was unstaffed. I went to the platform and spoke to one of the train staff who told me to go back to the ticket office. Everyone seemed very relaxed, and when the ticket-seller appeared, she seemed in no particular hurry, chatting to the lady behind me while she was sorting out my ticket. I was given a printed timetable as well as my ticket, as there is a change of trains just over half way around.

The train didn’t leave for another 10 minutes or so. Most of the people on board were commuters, a few students, certainly no other sightseers.

It’s a shame the weather was poor, as on a sunny day the views would be stunning, but unfortunately drizzly rain made photos difficult for most of the day.

The line weaves left then right, making its way across the lower part of the volcano. The stations looked tired, though there is an ongoing program of replacement of both stations and rolling stock. Also the track has been realigned, with the previous route often visible a short distance away, mostly on on the uphill side of the present line. The line is mostly rural, but there are stations in every settlement, and it stops every few minutes. I was surprised by how much of the route was underground, including quite a few stations.

Much of this line reminds me of the Ffestiniog or Welsh Highland. It is clings onto uneven terrain and cuts right through the middle of settlements, with minimal clearance either side. There is even a quarry as you climb higher, on the northern side of Etna.

The first large town I saw was Bronte. This looked like a place that might be worth exploring. The railway weaves through the upper part of the town in an attractive way. Maletto might be another town worth exploring. Most of my fellow passengers got off or on here and whilst it wasn’t clearly visible from the railway, the bits I could see looked good.

The change of trains comes at Randozzo. I had an hour and a half to wait so went for a walk and to find some lunch. As we’d approached the station I’d spotted some of the old Circumetnea rolling stock so went for a look at that.

This is a pleasant little town, even on a drizzly day, but was basically closed. I saw two open pharmacies and that is all. Everything else, including two cafes, was closed either for the day or for lunch. I’d all but given up hope of getting any food when I found a tiny place which was selling arancini.

I made my way back to the station. There was no connecting train in the platform. A conversation with the station staff revealed that the next section of the line was closed and we would need to take a bus replacement service.

I went round to the front of the station to find people already in conversation with the bus driver. He was explaining that yes he could take us to the connecting train, which would get us to the end of the Circumetnea at Riposto, but all main line trains back to Catania were cancelled. Eventually it was agreed that a different bus would take me and two French Canadian tourists back to central Catania.

The bus took a route that continued around the side of the volcano that we’d not done by train. The road and railway are very close together and we crossed the line multiple times.

As we reached the coast we descended sharply through a series of hairpins. I’d love to know how the train does this part of the journey. I’ll have to find out another time. This area is certainly worth exploring more thoroughly.

As we arrived back into Catania, the sun emerged for the first time that day, producing some interesting lighting effects on an otherwise stormy day. I jumped out as we passed one of the metro stations and made my way back to the end of the line, and my hotel.

I made a plan to meet up with Gilly for dinner before that evening’s concert. Thankfully the rain had not returned and we were able to eat outside.

We arrived at the the Metropolitan Theatre to find people queueing down the road to get in. Why they weren’t on the pavement, I have no idea. we joined them anyway.

This was a special evening, seeing Carmen Consoli in her hometown for the first time, and we were on the front row. A really lovely time was had, and we got to chat with her for a little while afterwards. I’m full of admiration for someone who plays a 2 hour show, then signs autographs for another hour and a half, and is still happy to chat (in her third language in my case!)