11th January – across France to Marseille

Lille Europe – Marseille St Charles

I was up and out very early, with a train at 07:23 and a brain that told me it was an hour earlier, I set two alarms to be sure! I was up, dressed and drinking tea before 7am.

At the station only one shop was open and I didn’t fancy a sandwich for breakfast so stuck with the fruit that I already had in my bag. The train pulled in moments after I arrived, though there was a short wait to board as it had to be joined to a second set that was already in the platform.

Having exited Lille though a tunnel we emerged into suburbs where not a lot was happening on a Sunday morning, or at least not a lot that I could see as it was still dark. Additionally I was in a middle seat. As in the UK, First Class is a 2+1 arrangement but as a last minute booking I didn’t have a window. The first bits of sunlight I saw came as we approached Charles de Gaulle airport.

The journey progressed very quickly (at 300km/h for long stretches) but with not a lot to see. The scenery was unremarkable but as we got further south there was less evidence of frost and more of Provence scenery, and an improving climate.

We arrived into Marseille around 20 minutes late. Not for any noticeable reason but we started losing time at Lyon and never made it up. As we got off I had a first daylight view of my train, with two TGV sets combined it really is huge, indeed I couldn’t even see the far end.

Marseille station must be one of the best internationally connected stations in Europe. Direct services arrive from Spain, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, operated by all those countries, as well as SNCF. It’s an attractive place, built up above the surrounding ground level as the land slopes down to the sea.

I was a little early to check into my hotel, but I went there anyway and they were happy to let me do this. As the above image shows, it was a lovely sunny day and out in the open warm enough not to need a coat.

I was given a city map as I checked in and a place that immediately caught my eye was a bit of a walk out of town, Palais Longchamp. I decided to go here first as the harbour area would look equally interesting in daylight or the dark.

I initially approached from the rear, having walked through the park that is behind it.

What an incredible place. The detail in both the architecture and the sculptures around the central waterfall was breathtaking. I spent a good time here photographing from all directions before deciding that I needed to get on with my exploration. There was a tram stop nearby so I saved a little time by taking this to the city centre.

My eyes were almost immediately drawn to an incredible Tunisian patisserie in the city centre. I didn’t buy anything but very much enjoyed the sight.

After wandering around for a short time I arrived at the harbour that is the heart of Marseille. Packed with a mix of small traditional boats and very expensive craft it is surrounded by a waterfront consisting mostly of bars and restaurants.

I carried on walking to the fort at the headland, but rather than going inside, continued around the outside. Initially it was a fairly traditional and predictable sight, but on the far side I found two very modern buildings, which were an extension to the fort museum complex, linked by a footbridge. The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations was built when Marseille was European City of Culture in 2013. Just beyond that, Villa Méditerranée is an events and exhibition space, opened the same year.

Two more traditional sights beyond these were firstly the cathedral and secondly a couple of groups of men playing Pétanque, which I don’t think I’ve seen played before.

As I walked the streets of the old town, I came across an area of graffiti art. I’ve commented before on these posts about my love of good street art and I do keep finding them!

I passed a small creperie shortly afterwards and it seemed a shame not to try something while I was here. I loved the decorative use of the cheese.

Walking back towards the centre I happened across a couple of sculptures which immediately made me think of Salvador Dali. I couldn’t see any reference to him, but I’d struggle to believe it is coincidental.

A bit of fun in the harbour is the ferry that crosses it about half way down, to save you walking all the way around. It only costs 50c so I had to give it a go. It was getting darker by now so the photos through the side windows weren’t great.

They solve the problem of not turning the boat by having two steering positions facing each other, with mirrored controls, which was novel. When the boat got to the end, I noticed that they don’t moor up, they just leave it in forward gear. I rather liked the older ferry, which was more traditional, moored next to the landing stage.

I walked up the other side of the harbour, ending up on the headland which overlooks it, and the city. The imposing Palais du Pharo was built for Napoleon III but is now a conference centre.

I had earlier thought that I might try to get to the basilica in the above photo. It was the first thing I’d noticed when I came out of the station and is visible from pretty much everywhere in the city. However it had turned cold since the sun went down, and I discovered that the site would close before I got there anyway. I instead walked back to the centre, and after one last look at the harbour headed up the main street back to my hotel.