Thurso – Inverness – Aviemore – Broomhill – Aviemore – Perth – Aberdeen

I had a fairly early train out of Thurso, so was away from my hotel by 8am. I was surprised to see quite a few people on the platform, but listening to conversations it was apparent at a number of them were heading for London today, and the 8:34 departure was the only chance to do that.

I was surprised to find lots of seats in the two-carriage train had been reserved. It hadn’t even occurred to me that might be a possibility, but fortunately I’d been quick to board so managed to bag a decent forward-facing seat with a table and charging point. I ended up sharing it for most of the journey with two members of a friendly Polish group who were spread over several tables.

The weather was dry but it looked like it might rain at any time, especially as we dropped down the valley back into Helmsdale.

As mentioned yesterday, I know this area well and it was nice to see it without having to keep an eye on the road. The section from Helmsdale to Brora is the bit I know best of all. The railway weaves first between houses along the coastline and then past miles of beaches.

Closer to Brora the beaches swap from shingle to sand. I walked these many a time 20-odd years ago when Kayt and Chris lived nearby. Kintradwell was the pick of the lot. We’d walk there all the time and almost never meet anyone. These days it looks like the already well hidden access has been blocked off so it may be that no-one walks this section any more, unless the make their way from Brora itself. The railway follows the coast down to Golspie, where it turns inland.

After the long loop around the estuary we return to the coast near to Tain. From the train there is a super view back up the coastline we had travelled down an hour earlier. The two views below were taken looking south near to Golspie then north near to Tain, almost exactly an hour apart.

I got a really good look at the canal at Clachnaharry, as we approached Inverness. The train moved really slowly over the moveable bridge I’d visited on foot a couple of days ago.

This service terminated at Inverness, and was clearly timed to connect with the next southbound train, as there was just a comfortable amount of time to change platforms. I spotted a few mementos on the station that I’d not seen before. They are very proud of their railway heritage up here, and rightly so. The lines are truly spectacular, and no less remarkable now than when they were built.

The line south from Inverness is one that I have only done a handful of times by train. It first takes a wide loop out of the city, climbing over 1300 to the summit Slochd, where it meets the A9 and the two stay within sight of each other pretty much all the way to Perth.

The timing and frequency of services meant that on arrival in Aviemore I had quite a wait to catch my train down the branch line. It’s a lovely station, with Scotrail operating 2 platforms and the Strathspey Steam Railway running the third. However, it is distinctly lacking in facilities, barring a gift shop. I wandered out onto the street to find some lunch, but with little joy. I ended up in the M&S shop in a BP petrol station, which was a shame as I had the time and inclination to sit down and eat, had anything suitable been on offer.

I was surprised on my return to the platform to find a service pulling in on the steam railway platform. I’d happened upon the launch day of restored Ivatt Class 2 engine, 46464. Members of the owners group were being treated to private runs up and down the line, between scheduled services.

The line is absolutely charming, initially running parallel to the main line, before turning east along the banks of the Spey, with views to the Cairngorms beyond. At Boat of Garten there is a break while water is taken. I would have liked longer here as there was lots to see. We crossed with 46464 again, as this is the only double track section.

The intention is to extend the line to Grantown-on-Spey, which will be super as it is a lovely town, but for now it terminates at the small halt of Broomhill., having first run past more super scenery. The extended line can be seen disappearing into the distance. I wish them luck with the project, as this will be a really super day out once they get there.

Back in Aviemore I discovered that my next train was running late. I returned to the M&S shop for a drink and something to keep me going as this was going to be a later evening than planned.

It was almost 6:15pm by the time I left for Perth. I love the scenery around Dalwhinnie and from the train you get time to look at it properly. Druimuachdar Summit, just south of there is the highest point on the main line rail network in the UK. As the line approaches Perth the fields beside the railway swap from wilderness to intensive farming.

I was very taken by Perth station. I’ve never changed here before and it has a super layout, resulting in lots of interest. Unfortunately the modern entrance is hideous, but everything else about it is super, having been squeezed into a relatively compact space. I especially liked the overhead walkways in the oldest part of the station, though I thought a better job could have been done with the new accessible lifts and walkways at one end of the station.

From Perth I now turned north-east, catching the evening Glasgow – Aberdeen Inter7City HST service. Improbably for a Saturday evening, it was almost empty. I had great sunset lighting as we headed first to Dundee and then up the coast.

It was almost 11pm when I reached my hotel, but far from dark. I dropped my bags and headed out to find food. After several days travelling the more remote areas of Scotland it was a bit of a surprise to find myself in a city on a Saturday night. I decided it wasn’t the time to go exploring so ate my takeaway back in the room, with views over the city towards the north sea.